My last days in Kamchatka I spent trekking in the Nalychevo National Park. First I had to cross the wide stretching Avachinsky pass. Than I followed the whole time a river, which had its source at the volcano. With the increasing distance from the volcanos the river got broader and the initial moon landscape on the pass turned little by little into a green valley. Without guide and good maps the danger was big to get lost in the huge and wild country. So I was forced to go the same way back. As everybody knows the human life in the Arctic is very tough. But the cause of this is neither the cold (one need simply warm cloths) nor the lack of food (especially the Arctic see is a rich source of food). The biggest problem for the people living in the Arctic is the vitamin deficiency. The human originates from the tropical Africa with plenty of fruits and other vitamin rich plants. So there was no necessity for his metabolism to synthesize some active components. But the lichens and other stunted tundra vegetation don't supply the people with enough essential vitamins. The animal's liver is the only rich source of vitamins available for the people living in the Arctic. Any kind of preparing the liver like boiling, frying etc. would destroy the fragile vitamins, so the Koryaks and other reindeer herding tribes in Kamchatka eat it raw. The Itelmens, who ate mostly fish, used as a medicine against scurvy cedar cones with dry salmon caviar chasing this mixture with tea.